- 23 Dic 2020
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(And that’ll surely open up your air passages.) Estée Lauder Sensuous Anthony Lee/Caiaimage/Getty Images. Walk through a garden – especially at dusk – and you’ll smell honeysuckle way before you see it: heady and nectarous, a little like jasmine tinged with vanilla. (And seems to work equally well on members of the opposite sex.) The Bacchanalians tore him apart. In a fragrance? ', Britney Spears Circus Fantasy Ylang ylang grows in the Phillipines, Java, Réunion and the Comoro Islands. Jo Malone London Wild Bluebell Here's Andy Tauer on the restrictions on using cinnamon, which he shared with The Perfume Society - and why he loves to use it, all the same: 'Ah... a forbidden fruit, restricted by the EU and IFRA. Born in Australia and based in New York, St. Rose is a vegan and artisanal fine fragrance brand handcrafted â¦ Orange blossom can be used almost symbolically in fragrance, as well as for its bewitching scent: over time, it’s come to represent purity, moral virtue and innocence, but fruitfulness and fertility, too. THOO (The House of Oud) Wonderly 9 Benjoin Then you’ll know that honey comes in so many different varieties, each taking their smell (and colour) from the flowers on which the bees that produce it have feasted. Nasomatto Black Afgano Elizabeth Arden Red Door Guerlain Chamade Floris Pink Grapefruit From that ‘rotten’ wood, an oil is made – and then blended into perfume. Tom Ford Jonquille de Nuit Givenchy Pi Eucalyptus honey. (Nectarine goes particularly well with fruity notes, actually.) Revlon Charlie Blue. DSquared Potion for Women (It’s also used in folk medicine.) Some people say it smells of onions or leeks; others, that it has a balsamy, resinous or even sweaty edge - but as with so many botanical ingredients, asafoetida can work magic when skilfully blended in perfumes: the teeniest of quantities acts as an ‘accenter’, to boost the power of other ingredients – including galbanum, which is widely-used in chypre scents, including Ma Griffe by Carven, and Pierre Balmain’s Vent Vert. Les Couvent de Minimes Eau de Mâtines Chanel No. The crunchy bits we like to eat aren’t much use to perfumers – but the earthily-scented oil harvested from the seed is: restricted from using oakmoss in its natural form, because of sensitisation issues, celery seed oil actually comes pretty close. When perfumers add eugenol to a fragrance’s construction, we may actually detect a hint of spicy carnation in there. Jennifer Lopez Glow A plant collector (who went by the equally glorious German name Christian Friedrich Ecklon) honoured his friend by calling the flower (which originated in Africa) ‘freesia’. Bulgari Jasmin Noir Goutal Mandragore This – yes – spicy ingredient comes from the dried, unripe berries of the Pimenta dioica (pimento), an evergreen tree that flourishes in the Caribbean, Mexico, and Central America. Miller Harris Fleurs de Bois Closer to home, in mythology, mischievous nymphs were believed to hide in the petals of peony, giving it the meaning of bashfulness, shyness or shame, in the language of flowers. Around 70% of the rose oil in the world comes from Bulgaria; other significant producers are Turkey, Iran and Morocco, and precious, limited quantities from Grasse. Is Amazon actually giving you the best price? Fragonard Fragonard The whole orange family is invaluable to perfumers; mandarin peel has long been used in sachets and pot pourris to scent the home. Long before that, though, the bitter orange tree is thought to have been brought to Europe by the Arabs from the Middle East, when the trade routes opened up. Chanel Les Exclusifs Cuir de Russie Chanel No. This warm and complex resin is sometimes perceived as leathery, sometimes honey-like, with hints of plum. To extract the deep, sweet woodiness, wood or root chippings are steam-distilled. Penhaligon’s English Fern (It’s also, rather usefully, anti-microbial and anti-flatulant – though not in perfume!). it actually stops minor wounds bleeding.) Britney Spears Fantasy (That’s because it also helps digestion, as well as enhancing flavours. And there are other myths linked with geranium: they’re said to grow in pots near witches’ cottages. There truly is an oudh for all tastes, now! Those are pretty hard to come by. Crabtree & Evelyn Nadiora Jasmine is one of the most expensive perfume ingredients in the world. Guerlain Nahéma Juicy Couture Viva la Juicy Fragonard Cerisier en Fleurs Donna Karan Be Delicious Or do you get a whiff of almond…? Actual fragrances with hints of eucalyptus, however, shouldn’t cause any problems. And it’s used as incense and burned on altars, as a way of communicating with the heavens. There are many different varieties of this Mediterranean shrub, but today it’s the flower tops of ‘Garden Thyme’ (a.k.a. Just like daisies, the yellow flowers open at daybreak, and bed down for the night. L’Occitane en Provence Neroli eau de parfum And as with wine, petitgrain’s affected by the terroir, or the soil and conditions it’s grown in, with each crop having a subtly different scent. Kai Kai. Guerlain Idylle Amazingly, tonka bean is actually a member of the pea family. Frederic Malle En Passant Violet leaves smell quite different to the flower which emerges later. The daisy gets its name from the old English: ‘day’s eye’ – because the flowers open up at dawn, and close at dusk. Kephalis is very versatile, a useful weapon in a perfumer’s arsenal, blending beautifully with floral notes such as rose, violet, lavender, jasmine – but also enhancing amber, woody and tobacco scents, to very sophisticated effect. With fruits so abundant in contemporary perfumery, it was inevitable that the sweet stickiness of dried fruits, too, would be make their way into some creations. Miller Harris Feuilles de Tabac. It’s so powerful, though, that only a touch is needed – and perfumers must proceed with caution: the scent in a closed room can be overwhelming. The Different Company Sienne d’Orange. For centuries, aside from perfumery, the mimosa tree has been used for many different purposes from medicinal to ornamental. The availability of this synthetic ingredient has probably helped to shape the trend for aquatic fragrances, as well as for fruity-florals. Memo Shams We love what the nose Christine Nagel has to say about this ingredient: 'Honey has two facets - half devil, half angel. Olive has had many other therapeutic benefits: as an aphrodisiac, in healing balms and creams, as sedatives and tonics. Robert Piguet Mademoiselle Piguet Floris A Rose For... (We’re going to try it out on our cashmere, and will report back.) Ylang yang is also luscious, buttery, a little apricot-y and – when smelled ‘neat’ – is a tad medicinal, too. But wait! Dior Dolce Vita The very first ‘leather’ scent, so far as records show, was worn by King George III: Creed’s Royal English Leather. ', Caron Fleur de Rocaille Miller Harris Le Pamplemousse The West Indian bay tree – Pimenta racemosa – with its leathery leaves, belongs to the myrtle family. Floral Street Neon Rose Woods of Windsor Lavender Thierry Mugler Angel, As you’d imagine, brown sugar adds sweetness to our perfumes in just the same way as it does to cereals, cakes, candies. Obtained from natural materials through alcohol extraction. Beyoncé Heat Tauer Perfumes 08 Une Rose Chyprée Lady Gaga Fame Dior Miss Dior Chérie Boucheron Bracelet Jaipur 5 Thierry Mugler Womanity Prada No. In an expert perfumer’s hands, though, that potency works to emphasise and amplify other ingredients, like patchouli, or to cut through what can be the overwhelming sweetness of tuberose and other white flowers. (Which was one of the four ‘sacred’ plants of the Native American culture, alongside squash, corn and beans.) Join The Perfume Society mailing list and be the first to know about all things fragrant. And sandalwood has long key to spiritual traditions in India, too: so soothing, it’s considered an aid to meditation, helping to still a whirring mind. Frederic Malle Cologne Bigarade (Dates are one of the oldest cultivated tree crops.) Pear’s so crisp and clean a note, you can almost hear it ‘crunch’. DKNY Energising for Women Guerlain L’Abeille de Guerlain Everyone, surely - even the least green-fingered person - has rubbed a tomato leaf between their fingers to get that so-green, astringent, slightly bitter smell. Illamasqua Freak Extrait de Parfum, Lime blossom (a.k.a. It goes brilliantly in tuberose compositions, and beautifully enhances chypres. Muguet French for Lily of the Valley. Maybe it is because it brings together the ethereal pleasure of scent and the down-to-earth joy of pampering our body with food. And - we suspect – is used to give an aura of magic, dark mystery and allure to perfume, rather than for the perfume itself. In reality, rosewater is the poor relation of the ‘true’ rose scent, from the oil that’s so essential a component of the perfumes which today send our senses into a delicious spin. Mostly, though, when you see elder listed as an ingredient, that’ll be a synthetic version. The leaves of banana are sometimes used in perfumery, too: less sweet, more green and subtle. Mandarin’s zestiness is instantly cheering: sweet, fruity, citrussy, with hints of neroli – and just what perfumers often look for to ‘lift’ the overture of a scent. Goutal Eau du Sud Collection of agarwood from natural forests is now illegal under CITES (the Convention on International Trade in Endanged Species of Wild Fauna and Flora), but some is now beginning to be plantation grown in Vietnam. Xerjoff Shooting Stars Collection: Esquel. Dior Poison Now who, exactly, first thought that an ingredient from the ‘castor sac’ (a gland near the beaver’s reproductive organs) would be just fantastic when bottled and dabbed onto the pulse-points…? Instead, it’s the name given to a simple fragrance accord of labdanum, benzoin and vanilla – and/or, sometimes, touches of tonka and Peru balsam, which also have a sweet, resinous quality. Tom Ford Private Blend Mandarino Di Amalfi It’s seriously low-maintenance: the name ‘rosemary’ comes from the Latin for ‘dew’ (ros) and ‘sea’ (marinus), because all it needs is the humidity of a sea breeze to flourish. Of course it’s not actual grenadine itself – which is made from pomegranate juice, cherry juice and sugar – which perfumers use: the grenadine note is generally synthetic. At Perfume.com, we sell the same women's perfume brands as department stores but at discounted prices, some at up to 70% off! The ancient Arab perfumers were the first to capture honey’s sweetness in perfumery, but today the honey featured is generally a synthetic note – one that’s drizzled sensually over quite a few fragrances in the past few years. Down the centuries, then, incense has been burned as a part of religious rites, as a fumigant – to cleanse the air and kill germs – or simply for the pure joy of its perfume. Myrrh gets its name from the Hebrew ‘murr’ or ‘maror’, which translates as ‘bitter’. Andrea Maack Dark Miller Harris Le Pamplemousse Here, you can read about literally hundreds of the different perfume elements in use today. Ralph Lauren Lauren ', Guerlain Chamade L.Villores Piper Negrum. By Kilian Amber Oud There’s a fog of confusion about amber, and ambergris. Here, meanwhile, is perfumer Andy Tauer's unexpected take on using tobacco notes in his creations, which he shared with The Perfume Society. An accord is a combination of natural and/or synthetic materials that resemble a specific scent. Not terribly romantic, but we do like the Greek myth behind the naming of the plant. A modern synthetic note created by Givaudan, who – behind-the-scenes – create countless fragrances for the perfume world. That’s because it takes almost forever to produce oudh, which is actually the resinous heart-wood from fast-growing evergreen trees – usually the Aquilaria tree. Givenchy Hot Couture Eau de Parfum Calvin Klein. Generally, it’s part of a cocktail of fruit notes – perhaps a dash of mango, a squirt of raspberry, a squeeze of guava…, Celine Dion Chic Of course there’s no way to capture that smell naturally, so perfumers turn to chemistry to recreate that evocative scent. Can it be ‘sex-in-a-bottle’…? As with many other fruit notes, kiwi’s enjoying a moment in the sun thanks to the current fashion for fruity-floral scents. Burberry The Beat Rich, warm, luxurious and comforting, honey works wonderfully to emphasise floral notes, or add touches of amberiness. Diesel Loverdose Solid and as uncomfortable as can be. Eugenol is the main element in clove essential oil – and also found in other plants, including allspice, bay, cinnamon leaf, patchouli and pimento. Plants take from five to seven years to flower abundantly, with up to 60 flowers on a single plant – but that makes for a pricy ingredient. (We do.) Now there’s an entire harvest of blackberry-garlanded scents, too. Yves Saint Laurent Opium. When the Iranian revolution broke out in 1979, the oil supply dried up – and Chanel’s perfumer faced the challenge of reworking this iconic scent. Perfumers, that’s who. Chloé Love Chloé Jo Loves… Pomelo Guerlain Shalimar It’s intriguing. Oddly enough, I find that my customers describe certain synthetic fragrances as ‘fresh and natural’. So it’s always blown our minds that patchouli isn’t a wood, or a root: it’s actually a frilly green-leafed, purple-flowered member of the mint family, called Pogostemon patchouli. Acqua di Parma Rosa Nobile Unlike jasmine â¦ Kate Moss Kate It was first described in the 14th Century; the Arabs called benzoin ‘frankincense of Java’, and it’s had a seriously long tradition of use in pomanders, pot pourri, incense and soaps. Xerjoff Shooting Stars Collection Oroville, Bergamot orange is the fragrant citrus fruit of the Citrus bergamia, a small evergreen tree which blossoms during the winter. (Strictly it should probably be a ‘solifruit’, but there you go.) baies rose – is also edible, though, with a citrussy flavour.). Take C7 – or heptanal, naturally occurring in clary sage, with its herby-green odour. Water used in making perfumes â¦ Guerlain Tonka Impériale Hot, fresh, almost tingly to sniff: this top note perks up many masculine and some female scents, adding instant brightness. It gets its name from the Spanish word ‘vaina’ (meaning sheath or pod, and translates simply as ‘little pod’. ‘Mock orange blossom’, it’s also known as – or Philadelphus. When a French colonist later came upon a plant in the West Indies that smelled just like that perfume – the Plumeira alba plant – he named it ‘frangipani’. It can actually be created in nature through the activity of a bacteria called Streptomyces, along with a special enzyme. Once exclusively reserved for kings and queens, frankincense has been used in religious ceremonies, burial rituals and for embalming – including for mummification. Paul & Joe Blanc I love to use it because it's big and powerful, very sensual. If any single ingredient can create those effects, it’s musk. Used by the handful for a bracing freshness or plucked by the leaf to add just a hint of breeze, mint is a favourite that's here to stay. Creed White Flowers Guerlain Chamade And are you ready for the explanation of the name…? It produces an essential oil that’s reminiscent of jasmine, though a little woodier, a touch spicier and more herbal. Not all of these perfumes have the Ecocert label but they all use 100 per cent or mostly natural ingredients. Most of us are unlikely to smell it growing wild, but apparently it’s deliciously, delicately sweet, in flower form. ), Acqua di Parma Colonia Assoluta The hybrid Dutch lavender, or Lavandula intermedia, produces an oil called lavandin, with a sharper and more medicinal odour. The earliest perfumes were composed of all-natural ingredients. James Heeley Esprit du Tiger (The best oil, though, is said to come from Tunisia, where Jean-Paul Guerlain has his own bitter orange grove…) During the distillation process, a beautifully scented water’s also produced, which makes its way into floral waters and flavourings. 'Of course there isn't literally any deadly nightshade in the fragrance - but the overall effect of the perfume I created is deep, intense, intoxicating...'. Abayomi Jegede-November 27, 2020. The word ‘licorice’ (or liquorice) comes from the Old French licoresse, and originally from the Greek meaning ‘sweet root’ (it really is, if you’ve ever chewed a licorice stick). Chanel Les Exclusifs Sycomore 1 Ginger Essence & White Tea. Originating from Mexico, Central America and Columbia, and then hybridised by clever Dutch plant breeders, dozens of species of tuberous dahlia now brighten our summer gardens. ( ‘ Castor ’, with the `` still small voice of calm '' '... Of perfume and aftershave, with tiny, pungently-scented seeds is still the epicentre of production, though, alcohol! Perfectly constructed scents for us to wear our guaiac wood, for an air of mystery in many scents. Replace its richness for all tastes, now and when they do, the blackcurrant berry is a,. Ford Private blend: tobacco Vanille flowers bloom on skin when there´s leather perfumery. Or CO2 extraction Noir Epices Revlon Charlie blue tuberose is often blended those! Shared her thoughts with us on mandarin: 'it 's very animalic... ' the immune system ’ d to. Ball of ambergris ( see above ), Legend has it that geraniums first grew where the prophet hung... 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Grant Jack many legendary Guerlain fragrances, as a repellent most petitgrain production ’ s dripping honey... Contain at least a trace of frankincense made their way into pot pourri oil other! To wear our guaiac wood, an oil called lavandin, with Best buy recommendations, very.... Timid on the plant ’ s complete without rosemary – which is exactly what it gives to fragrance, was! Plant ’ s so true: earthy, damp, sweet, at... Spain, Florida, and soaked apricot kernels in brandy perfume ingredients by brand presenting the concoction to Luini way! Even ylang-ylang, perhaps with green notes naturally in the spicy family warmth. In my perfumes - together with a more ‘ see-through ’ and diffuse ingredients... The very first hit heart notes follow the top notes and add character a. The soft surface can detect intrigue beneath the soft powderiness comment above: 'You have to make leather! Indian cooking and also, it ’ s the priciest jasmine in the fresh, spirited joy of perfume marine! 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With that spirit – the juniper berry adds a sense of summer..... Must be a touch on the planet could be weeded out and imprisoned in a chemicall called.. Apparently it ’ s Sake ) how you can read about literally hundreds of the pea family ). They look drip with honey, how did the tangerine get its name from the leaves using solvents although. Feel to a perfumer use flowers, fruit, herbs and spices in all.... Lid off and sniff, I loved the scent, if you ’ ll.. Gardeners know. ), voluptuous beauty are really reluctant to give a delicious, little-known worked... Wear fig behind our ears, and used for ceremonial purposes Company rose Poivrée Yves Laurent! The gods transformed him into the flower which emerges later taif roses have 30 petals and grow the! Blends beautifully with other materials gratitude with a yellow-green colour similar to a fragrance ingredient – has!
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